Go to Pfaff's!

Pfaff and the Restaurant in the 1870s

The 1870s seems to have marked a period of change for Charles Pfaff, his family, and his restaurant. In 1870, Charles Pfaff and his son are listed on the census twice, each time in a different location, which suggests they may have moved within the year. On July 2, 1870, fifty-year-old Charles Pfaff and his thirteen-year-old son are living in the same dwelling as J. Zimmerman, a hotel keeper, and his eighteen-year-old son, a store clerk named Robert Zimmerman in the third election district of New York City’s

NYC Wards 1870
 15th Ward.1 There are several noteworthy pieces of information contained in this census record. First of all, Pfaff’s surname is spelled “Paff” (although it could also be and is transcribed on the genealogy website Family Search as “Raff”). While it is likely just a coincidence, it is interesting that Pfaff becomes “Raff” or “Paff” here since the latter was the spelling used on the Corinthian’s manifest for Ignaac Paff. There is no mention of Pfaff’s wife on this record; however, the year 1870 seems to be the beginning of a close and lasting friendship between the Pfaffs and the Zimmermans. Members of the Zimmerman family not only live in the same dwelling as Pfaff and his son, but persons with that last name (and presumably members of the same family) share a home with Pfaff according to the 1880 census as well. By December 23, 1870, the Pfaff and his son are listed at an address located in the 10th district of the 15th Ward, on Greene Street between Bleecker and Amity Streets. Here, “Pfaff” is spelled “Phaff,” and this time, it is Catharine Zimmerman, age 40 and Robert Zimmerman, age 18 that live in the same house as the Pfaffs.2 It is also worth mentioning that in the July 1870 census entry for Charles Pfaff, Sr., there is a check mark in the box reserved for “Male citizens over 21 whose right to vote is denied or abridged for reasons other than rebellion or other crime”; however, in December 1870, there is no such notation on the line for Pfaff’s name.3

Another important event for the Pfaff family that occurred in the early 1870s was that Charles Pfaff, Jr., then approximately thirteen years of age, was sent away from his father’s beer cellar and from New York to continue his education. Charles Pfaff, Jr., entered a Moravian School known as

Nazareth hall
Nazareth Hall in 1871, a boarding school for young men located in Nazareth, Pennsylvania. His entering class contained seventy members (including Pfaff himself), and his name is listed in a catalogue of pupils simply as “Pfaff, Charles, New York.”4 Given that Pfaff, Sr. was a native of Germany, it is not surprising that he would want his son educated at the school. Nazareth Hall was advertised in periodicals such as Harper’s Weekly, and the New York Morning Courier in the 1860s.5 Given Charles Pfaff’s reputation for keeping periodicals in his cellar, he might have easily seen such advertisements for Nazareth Hall. On September 2, 1873, when Pfaff, Jr. would have been entering his third year at Nazareth, The New York Tribune printed a profile of the school under the headline “Suggestions for Parents,” as part of a series of descriptive columns on private educational institutions.6 At that time, Pfaff was one of 130 students that were taught by Nazareth’s thirteen teachers. Room and board and tuition would have cost Charles Pfaff, Sr. $280? [illegible] per year, and for this sum, his son could have studied “the common English branches,” as well as mathematics (algebra and geometry), the sciences (astronomy, physics, chemistry, geology), and industrial drawing. For an extra fee students received instruction in foreign languages and/or music. Pfaff, Jr. would have also been encouraged to participate in athletic sports, gymnastics, and/or military drills.7 Although his favorite recreational activities at Nazareth are uncertain, it may have been here that he developed or at least increased his love for athletic contests, like the speed skating competitions held on various frozen lakes that he frequently entered when he returned to New York following the completion of his education. By that time Pfaff, Jr. had acquired the skills necessary to pursue a position in a Mercantile house, which he would do in 1876.

At the same time, the early 1870s saw the emergence of new, creative advertising strategies for Pfaff’s restaurant. One such advertisement that appeared in The American Enterprise in January 1872 was written in the form of a poem, entitled “ RHYMES AT A RESTAURANT.”8 The poem has a subtitle, printed in italics, that provides the name and address of the “Restaurant” in question: “C. Pfaff’s, 653 Broadway, New York.” Although certainly humorous in tone, the poem also functioned as a menu that gave potential customers insight into the foods and beverages available at Pfaff’s. The poet draws attention to Pfaff’s tea and his rhein wine and to the lager beer and coffee that helped make Pfaff famous since those are among the items that the American Bohemians had praised at 647 Broadway more than a decade earlier. Here, the poet also chooses to point out primarily the meats or the “beef,” the “Schinken” (ham), and the “mutton” that likely make up the main dinner courses at the cellar. There may even be a reference to the American Bohemians in the second line of the poem since Pfaff’s customers are designated as “Herr, Ritter, and Graf,” which can be translated from the German as “Man, Knights, and Count.” The American Bohemians were sometimes referred to as the “Knights of the Round Table,” and this word choice may suggest that the remaining members of the group are responsible for or at least associated with the creation of this poem.

Even though the poem could substitute for the restaurant’s menu, it is perhaps even more important for its language and its rhyme scheme. The poem makes use of words from German, French, and English, all of which are languages that Charles Pfaff was known to speak. The writer’s linguistic ability and affinity for word play suggests that the intended audience for such a poem would know the meaning and pronunciation of the words from at least one and, ideally, more of the three languages that appear in the piece. Thus Pfaff seemingly continues to market his restaurant to a French and/or German speaking clientele. In addition to switching languages throughout the poem, another of the writer’s impressive linguistic feats is that the word at the end of each line ends in “aff.” All of the lines, therefore, are intended to rhyme or nearly rhyme with one another. The repetition of the “aff” sound throughout the poem constantly reminds the reader of the name of the proprietor and of the restaurant itself. The name “Pfaff” also actually appears four times throughout the poem. The “C. Pfaff” at the end of the poem is both the name of the proprietor and an encouragement for readers to “See Pfaff” for dinner and drinks.

Another feature that might attract customers is the poem’s mention of the restaurant’s staff. Once again the staff is presented as a veritable brigade of “nimble- foot[ed]” men that “wait” insofar as they serve the customers and are “waiting” or remaining in the establishment in anticipation of more patrons arriving at “THE RESTAURANT PFAFF.” Because these words are printed in capital letters, the reader’s eye is immediately drawn to the end of the poem and, of course, to the name of the restaurant. Even the title “Rhymes at a Restaurant” could be meant to suggest that this poem was composed at Pfaff’s cellar. Readers, therefore, not only imagine a group of patrons around a table writing these lines in the cellar, but they also learn that they can go and see for themselves the location the poet praises and, perhaps, even the very site where this combination of literature and advertising was created.

On the same page as the poem, another particularly unique ad for Pfaff’s appears, containing the words “CHARLES PFAFF” in capital letters (see Figure 10, Appendix A).9 Above, below, and between the letters of Pfaff’s name, the advertisement is illustrated with small comical sketches of Pfaff’s customers and possibly even Pfaff himself. Given that some of the American Bohemian group were also artists and illustrators, it is hard not to speculate that the advertisement may have been designed by one of the former members of Clapp’s crowd. In the far left, surrounded by the “C” that begins “CHARLES,” is an image of a large, stocky man with a beard shoveling food into a huge mouth, that appears where one would expect an oven to be depicted. This man may be Charles Pfaff since the illustration seems to match physical descriptions of the bar-owner.


Figure 10

If this is the case, then Pfaff appears several times throughout the ad performing tasks ranging from cooking to serving drinks in glasses and from holding a ladle for soup to staggering under the weight of a bottle of wine that seems to be as big as Pfaff himself. When he serves the drinks, he holds a wine glass on a tray so close to the head of one male customer that it seems he is literally playing “Ganymede” insofar as he seems to offer the cups so that the patrons could drink from them while he continues to hold them in place. On the far right—in what is perhaps the strangest and most graphic illustration of the advertisement—Pfaff’s own head, having been separated from the rest of his body, is offered up to the reader on a platter carried by a servant or a waiter. Pfaff’s head, particularly the lines of his face, gradually become through a series of slightly altered or morphing portraits the name of the street where Pfaff’s is located. At the end of the advertisement, therefore, Pfaff’s face has become the word “BROADWAY,” which curls around the last remaining lines of Pfaff’s head. This suggests that Pfaff and his restaurant are synonymous with the famous New York Street since this is at least his third restaurant on Broadway. Pfaff’s head on the platter may symbolize the bar-owner’s sacrifice, that is, his efforts to satisfy his customers by managing each aspect of the business himself. It was this hard work and determination that Pfaff had been praised for years earlier when he again stepped into the position of owner following the unsuccessful changes Cruyt made in his business model. In short, what patrons get at Pfaff’s and, indeed, the reason why they go to the restaurant is Pfaff himself and his impeccable customer service.

One of the most noteworthy and humorous illustrations that accompany the advertisement shows Pfaff carrying a large, living frog around the restaurant on a platter as if to serve the animal to a guest or to drop it into a cooking pot. The frog stares gloomily back at Pfaff as if it knows and, with good reason, dreads its fate. The frog may be a reference to the restaurant’s menu,

Shakespeare Tavern
especially if it included frogs’ legs and/or it may signify French cuisine and, by extension, the French immigrants and/or French-speaking clientele that frequented the place. It could also have literary connotations, which would not have escaped the notice of the American Bohemians. After all, Henry Clapp, Jr. first published Mark Twain’s story “Jim Smiley and His Jumping Frog” (later “The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County”) in the Saturday Press in 1865, a time when Pfaff’s would have only just opened at the 653 location.10 In addition to the frog, the ad features at least one more potential tribute to the American Bohemian group. Although, perhaps a bit of a stretch, from a distance, when a reader examines the advertisement, the letters do not simply appear to spell out “CHARLES PFAFF.” Because some parts of the letters are half-hidden by the illustrations of Pfaff and his patrons, they almost seem to spell “SHAKESPEARE.”11 The name of the bard would have held particular significance for the actors, actresses, and drama critics that came to Pfaff’s. Even more importantly, however, “SHAKESPEARE” might also be interpreted as a reference to the “ Shakespeare Tavern,” which “opened in 1808 at the corner of Nassau and Fulton streets and was for the next thirty years the rendezvous of New York literati.”12 The owner of the tavern was Thomas Hawkins Hodgkinson, who was an actor himself, and during this time, the place was especially well known as a “resort for the actors, the artists, the writers, the talkers of the town.”13 The tavern’s impressive reputation could also be attributed to “the excellence of its wines and for the quaint style and quiet comfort of its suppers.”14 Like the Shakespeare Tavern, Pfaff’s, in its most famous days at 647 Broadway boasted a largely literary and dramatic clientele, and it makes sense that the restaurant at its 653 Broadway location would remind its customers of the heyday of American Bohemia and of a rich history of a similar gathering place in early nineteenth-century New York.

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